A Hearty Book of Veggie Sandwiches

Starred review from December 20, 2021
Chef Freeman (Easy Beans) ably proves a good sandwich is more than just “slapping ingredients between two slices of bread” in this innovative and enticing collection. Espousing the healthy, economic, and planetary advantages of occasional plant-based “mindful” eating, Freeman celebrates the meat of the sandwich—“filling, satisfying, and packed with umami”—sans “the actual meat.” Instead, she offers savory substitutes including eggplant, mushrooms, tempeh, and tofu as the foundation for balancing ingredients, textures, layers, and flavors. Choosing the right bread (“the exoskeleton of the meal”) is equally crucial, Freeman notes, the four “basic forms” being “the slice,” loaf, wrap, and roll. From this base, she builds out a robust offering of sandwich recipes, with chapters devoted to singles (open-faced toasts or canapés), among them a standout avocado Hollandaise-sauced Tofu Benedict; seared options like a grown-up grilled cheese, and maple tempeh with ricotta and caramelized onions; stacked “favorites,” which, for instance, tweak the classic BLT into a mushroom bacon, lettuce, and tomato affair; and stuffed stars that riff on quesadillas, burritos, pitas, and even French toast. For added tang, color, and crunch, she also recommends favored mustards (Freeman’s “ride or die favorite”), mayos, pesto, schmears, and quick pickle recipes. Loaded with flavor, this takes the simple sandwich to delicious new heights.

January 14, 2022

Enjoying a fresh, well-made sandwich is one of life's simple pleasures, and the 40 recipes in this book make it easy for home cooks to elevate vegetarian and vegan sandwiches to a new level. Professional chef Freeman presents a vibrant range of plant-based options for both hot and cold American classics. There are breakfast recipes (French toast; tofu Benedict), and recipes suited to a light lunch or snack (roasted eggplant crostini; beet and blueberry bruschetta). To satisfy those seeking a heartier alternative, Freeman shares creative vegetarian and vegan interpretations of "meaty" sandwiches like portobello cheesesteaks, an eggplant muffuletta, and black-eyed pea sloppy joes. Most recipes have fairly long ingredient lists and preparation usually involves several separate steps, but home cooks dedicated to achieving sandwich perfection will appreciate Freeman's emphasis on fresh ingredients and well-developed flavors. VERDICT This book offers a lively range of sandwich options for vegetarians, vegans, and those ready for a break from meat-based meals. A great choice for readers who would like to add more plant-based dishes to their diets but don't know where to start.--Kelsy Peterson

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